starter bakery opens on solano
despite the early-ish hour for a saturday, joining this morning's opening line at starter bakery's sparkling new location at 1183 solano avenue in albany was an easy lift.
during the pleasant wait (the rain didn't start until later), friendly strangers engaged in what can only be described as bakery love-chat, describing and recommending starter favorites from chocolate babka to seasonal tartines to cinnamon rolls to, yes, the croissants and kouign ammans. the word "obsessed" was used a few times. ("did you say custard?" said one lady from the front of the line politely addressing someone near the back. "can you tell me more?")
morning visitors to starter solano enjoyed first dibs, an old-fashioned raffle and recommendations direct from baker-owner brian wood. photo credits berkeley eats.
starter bakery, from baker-owner brian wood, has been a local favorite for 15 years, selling wholesale (including from a gilman street online pick-up location) since 2010, and from its lovely rockridge storefront since 2023.
the new albany location is starter's second retail shop and, as with the oakland location, features a warm, crisp, clean-lined, white-tile backdrop (with possibly more tile to come along some walls) that allows the pastries, pies and breads to shine. there is also a fair amount of easy seating at the new location, as well as grab-and-go sandwiches, mini pies, juices and coffee drinks from roastco.
folks in line from albany, el cerrito, richmond and north berkeley expressed an excitement and also a bit of healthy concern for the new location's proximity to their neighborhoods, though one woman chimed in, "i will drive as long as it takes, i don't mind."
"we just got a too good to go bag yesterday from gilman," said one couple. "so we have a bag of kouign ammans waiting at home, but we're still here."
details from starter bakery's opening morning on solano avenue in albany. photo credit berkeley eats.
baker-owner brian wood was the event's in-person celebrity, though his demeanor was more kindly neighbor than vip. he added a warm presence to the front of the line, making friends as well as his own recommendations ("i always love the pretzel croissant...and it might be a little early for a ham and cheese sandwich but we bake the baguettes fresh so they're pretty special...").
there was also much talk among visitors and wood himself regarding starter's new beignets, made special for the solano location. were they really beignets, challenged one fan? they looked more like malasadas, or even doughnuts.
starter albany's soft, french-style beignets come plain or filled with light passionfruit or chocolate creme de patissiere. photo credit berkeley eats.
wood conceded the possible confusion between his version – french-style beignets, similar to boules de berlin, round, light, soft, and filled with chocolate or passionfruit creme de patissiere – and the classic new orleans-style pillow-shaped, deep-fried dough loaded with powdered sugar.
"there might have to be a rebranding," smiled wood, although maybe not. after all, wood is the same baker who taught an entire local public to say, spell and appreciate the term 'kouign amman.'
starter bakery is now open at 1183 solano avenue in albany.
october 25, 2025