a good sandwich - the braised lamb sandwich at uqbar

a good sandwich - the braised lamb sandwich at uqbar
the braised lamb sandwich at uqbar mediterranean cafe in west berkeley. photo credit berkeley eats.

artsy, eclectic and off the well-worn berkeley path, peaceful uqbar cafe at 2265 fifth street in west berkeley (formerly tomate) has been on our to-try list since it opened in november.

photo credit berkeley eats.

we finally swung by very casually for a single housemade 'blueberry thunder' muffin, aptly named for its thunderously high (but well proportioned) blueberry content.

the immediate next day: two more muffins (one to share, honest) and, timing our visit for lunch, a sumptuous lamb sandwich.

next, we'll try a seasonal soup, salad, polenta, hummus plate, or any of the housemade baked goods, including the fresh buckwheat english muffins we saw in the bakery case at the counter. [deep breath.]

but back to the sandwich.

acme pizza bianca – similar to focaccia – is halved crosswise and toasted, with a hint of olive oil and delicate amount of white cheddar. the sandwich is then layered with cuts of lamb that are both lean and rich, having been braised (low and slow) with onion, aleppo pepper and a mix of spices for six hours.

there is a drizzle of pomegranate molasses and a thin spread of housemade toum – whose garlic does not overpower, but certainly tip-toes up on you – and some lightly pickled red onion spiced with sumac. a sprinkle of fresh herbs (mint, parsley, dill) finishes the wrapped, warm sandwich.

uqbar's married, first-time owner-operators are berkeley native jennie smith and chef benji smith (kantine), who notably invited tomate's former staffers to stay on during the cafe's transition. their clear dedication lends to the vibe, and there is a real sweetness to the handsome, funky, skylit space decorated in local art (the clock!), and filled with local creatives, west berkeley professionals and those in the know.

outside, a crisp, protected patio is both comfortable and dog-friendly.

the cafe serves breakfast and lunch tuesday-saturday, and runs occasional evening events (trivia nights, art talks). watch instagram for updates.

uqbar mediterranean cafe is at 2265 fifth street in berkeley.

may 1, 2026 (more good sandwiches)

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